The Revolutionary Venezuelan Lowbagger
Diaries
Roselle Goes Anti-Global At The World Social
Forum
By Mike Roselle
POOLSIDE,
CARACAS HILTON HOTEL -- I had never been to the World Social
Forum, the anti-globalization movement’s answer to the White Guy
meeting of the
corporate elite in Davos, Switzerland. So
when offered
a ticket by Randy Hayes, I jumped at the chance. I wanted to check in
on an
event that brought the grass roots leaders of the world together for a
week of
meetings, workshops, speeches and fun. We
took the flight from San
Francisco to Houston
where we met
Floyd and K-Baum in time to board the Redeye flight to Caracas. We
arrived in
the early morning and caught a bus to the city by way of a detour
because the
main bridge from the Airport had collapsed. This turned what would have
normally been a 45 minute ride into a three hour excursion through
forested canyons,
over foggy mountain passes and through the congested suburbs where
precariously
perched houses of cement and bricks seemed to completely cover the
steep hills,
making the mountains resemble gigantic dilapidated pyramids. Finally we
arrive
in the city, a collection of tall concrete skyscrapers and streets
teeming with
noise, smoke and life. We disembark in the university district, where
the World
Social Forum (WSF) was in full swing.
The
smell of revolution was in the air.
So was the inescapable smell of petroleum, which has helped to
fuel this
country’s revolt against the established order of international
oligargs and
cleptocrats.
Everywhere there are booths and tents and pavilions buzzing with
activity. Vendors are peddling
everything imaginable, most of it festooned with
the blazing images of the great revolutionary Che,
and Hugo Chavez the
President of Venezuela and major Bush antagonists. I buy a pair of Che
socks
and some Hugo Chavez boxer shorts from a guy in a red beret.
Aside
from scene at the university, much
of the action is at the Hilton Hotel. It’s a strange sight to see
so many
leftists, hippies, Rastafarians, and every sort of social activist
commandeering
a major outpost
and symbol of capitalism. At the hotel we learn that a very
good five-dollar breakfast can be had for
about eighteen bucks. And, if you
stare hard enough at the wait staff, you can even get a refill on your
coffee,
which is not as good as the coffee you can get on the street for a
fraction of
the price.
The rooms are actually
pretty inexpensive at the Hilton,
which is owned by the Venezuelan government,
who has supported the forum. Most
importantly, the rooms at the Hilton have
Internet access, crucial
for today’s anti-global activists, which our hotel,
the fabulously misnamed Waldorf, does not. At the
Waldorf, our rooms are
spacious and totally devoid of any furniture or decorations save for a
small
bare
light bulb, a bunk bed and a badly functioning toilet. It has a large
window
with a single pane of
glass. If you slide it to the right the window is half
open. When you slide it to the left, the window is half
closed. The real
attraction of the Waldorf is not only that it is twenty dollars a night
(for a
3-person room).
It is situated next door to a very nice bar where the locals
gather to watch their baseball team, the
Lyones, which were in the process of
sweeping the national grand finals. Every time the Lyones scored
a run, the bar
erupted in the team fight song; LEEEE-OHHH-NEY, LEEOHHNEY! The score
was 12-0,
but they cheered every play as if it was a go ahead run in the last
inning.
These fans love their baseball
and drink their Scotch and drink it out of
twelve-ounce tumblers like it was ice-tea. At one point, two
inebriated
pugilists stage a separate contest to settle the question of the relief
pitcher’s
manhood.
The bar empties as the contest moves to the sidewalk, and later the
two battered contestants return
to their drinks, one of them sporting a very
nice shiner.
There are reportedly a few hundred
Americans among
the 70,000 or so registered participants, but
they are harder to spot then you
might think. And certainly not by their dress or skin pigmentation, as
most
everyone here is in traditional western dress, mostly jeans, slacks,
and athletic
wear. One can
see all the logos, from Adidas to Tommy Hilfiger, ironically just
about everything but Patagonia. Many
of the representatives from the Indigenous
organizations are in customary dress, as were many of the
hippies. Most of the
gringos here seem to be fluent in Spanish, and if you combine that with
the
fact
that few of the American revolutionaries came down here to meet other
gringos. I spend much of my
time walking around smiling at people and
graciously accepting leaflets that I cannot read.
The most surprising thing of all about
this event is
the number of hippies. And I do mean hippies;
dreadlocked, nose,-pierced,
tattooed, bare mid-rifted, drum-banging, bong-toting hippies. And they
are not
Americans. They seem to hail from every corner of the globe. At the
youth camp,
the Bob
Marley tee shirts are moving faster then the Hugo Chavez shirts, which
few of the students are sporting.
The sound of samba drums and the smell of
ganja floats in the breeze and I follow it to a group of
students who are
displaying a legalize marijuana placard. In broken Spanish I tell them
I am a
hippie.
They go wild. They explain that normally they couldn’t smoke in the
park, but today was different,
the park was liberated. I yell VIVA WOODSTOCK,
and they understand and enthusiastically agree.
From reading some of the discussion papers
presented,
there is some tension around the
“hippie question”. The WSF has always been
decentralized and without any dictatorial structure,
the gatherings often have
a festive, celebratory atmosphere. There are now some voices calling
for
the
Forum to get more serious and more involved with the struggle for
political
power. Others
believe the event should be maintained within a non-governmental
and non-party space. In order to
preserve the character of the organizations
and movements that started it, which were mostly grassroots
political pressure
groups, not political entities.
By far the most visible American
organizations were
Global Exchange, Public Citizen, and the
International Forum on Globalization.
Their combined U.S. delegation was made up of many
battle-hardened veterans in
the anti globalization struggle; Media Benjamin, Lori Wallach,
Deborah James,
Juliet Beck, Victor Menotti, Hurricane Hayes and dozens of others. This
was an
impressive group of Americans representing us in a country that
basically hates
our government.
Of course some of these gringos were in the business of hating
the U.S. government when Hugo
Chavez was still in diapers.
The great Philippine organizer, Walden
Bello, was
also here updating info-seeking crowds on the
outcome of the recent WTO meeting
in Hong Kong. It’s wasn’t good news, but not totally
bad either.
Last time I saw
Walden was 1987. Hayes and I shared a jail cell with him in Washington, D.C. I guess
the World Bank and
the International Monetary Fund didn’t appreciate his opinions of them
that
day.
Now here he is, rightly respected for his role in building the movement
that makes such gatherings as
the WSF both possible and important.
I have attended a few international
conferences before.
I have even visited a few countries on the brink
of or just after an important
social revolution. But this gathering was certainly different, a
perfect
combination of Fidel Castro, Mahatma Gandhi and Bob Marley. I believe
something
like this just might
catch on someday, and evidently so did the 70,000 other
people who registered. This should forever lie
to rest any claims that this
movement lacks diversity and sophistication. The attendees literally
represented
millions of people from oppressed and oppressor countries. And the
spirit is
that of a
smart, united global front.
I was in the rooftop bar, poolside, at the
Hilton
having a beer with famous freedom fighter Tom Hayden.
Actually he was having a
coffee and reading a thick stack of laser printing.
I am having a beer. I go over to his table
and ask
him if I can interview him for Lowbagger.
He asks me
if I had a tape recorder and I said no, I would just scribble a few
notes on some bar napkins and if I
couldn’t decipher them later I would just
make shit up. He said, “That was fine, but just don’t quote me.”
My first question was what he thought
about the
differences between the New Left that he helped define
in the 1960’s and
today’s anti-globalization movement. Here is what he said.
“First, in 1960, the environmental
movement didn’t
exist. Independent media didn’t exist. Today we have
far more leadership from
women and a much more diverse cultural make-up. Today the movement is
more
global, not as ideologically rigid, more flexible on goals and
platforms, more
movement than
political party.”
Then I asked him if he had any criticism
of the U.S. anti-globalization
movement either because of their counter-cultural image and their
perceived
association with street violence.
He said, “No.”
Tom went on to explain that when the
government
develops new tactics to deprive political movements
of their voice, the
movements usually responds with new tactics to overcome the
disadvantage. He
believes that there is an “inner intelligence that movements display
when they
face such a crisis, and
you need to learn that given enough time, this
intelligence will manifest itself.”
I asked him what he thought of the recent
arrests of
eleven environmental activists on grounds of
domestic terrorism. Did he
disapprove of such tactics? Hayden responded by placing the blame
squarely on
the authorities. He said that historically, it was inevitable that when
people
are deprived of
a voice, and refused the
ability to make an impact, when the government uses all of its power to
isolate
and humiliate them, people will adopt more militant tactics. I silently
drink a
toast to Avalon, who’s
December jailbreak in an Arizona prison was both heart-breaking
and inspirational. A spirit like his can
never die. I thanked Tom and let him
get back to his coffee and laser printing. I repeated my promise
not to quote
him. He replied, “Good!”
Later, El Presidente Hugo Chavez addressed
the Forum
at a large sports stadium where 40,000 people
listened to a three-and-a-half
hour speech. The only part I could translate was the he repeatedly
referred
to America’s El Presidente as “Mr.
Danger” and made a point of saying hello to Fidel Castro.
Tomorrow Floyd, Hurricane, K-Baum, Brian
Stasinsky
and I are going to see Angel Falls or something.
There is a faction that wants
to go to the beach so I still don’t know. Wherever we go, I hope there
are
some
hippies there.
Mike Roselle
hopes there will be hippies in heaven.
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