"Environmental News"                                                          Sept. 7, 2005


The River of Fire

By Mike Roselle

Photos Josh Mahan

Josh and I rolled up to the Vinegar Creek boatramp after a six-day float on the Salmon River the last day of August. Because of rumors of wildfire raging in the area and low water, we had had the river all to ourselves. I’ve run the Salmon many times since 1979, and the world has changed a great deal over the passing years. But the Salmon stays the same. Here in the midst of the nation’s largest wilderness complex outside of Alaska life is unchanged, unhurried.

My first raft trip on the Salmon was with Dr. Doom, Sara Sturgis, Bart Kohler, Dave Foreman, Howie Wolke, Pete Dustard, Abe “Cosmos” and Lola Blank, Lynelle Wagner and a few other buckaroos. We took seventy cases of beer and a few doses of a strange powder that convinced Cosmos to make me the godfather of his and Lola’s soon to be born daughter, Rachel.  I had just met Cosmos and Lola at my 25th Birthday Party at the Simpson House in Jackson Hole when they arrived unannounced, Cosmos with a screech owl perched on his shoulder and Lola sporting a giant tarantula on her left breast. Lily, the spider, would also accompany us on the Salmon River but the owl found a mate in Oregon and returned voluntarily to the wild. Because this was most of the Staff of the newly published Earth First! Journal, this was a business trip. And because this was a river trip, the girl I came down with dumped me for a river guide with a bigger boat. Over the years, I have come to respect the ways a simple river trip can reorder your life. One fire put out and another started.

<>The forest fires, this year, died down due to the arrival of some cool, moist weather, but one could still see it’s most recent impacts on the steep canyon walls: burnt stems of Pondersosa Pines, blackened grass and bare soils, and the smell of wood smoke. The smoke hung low in the sky, blocking out much of the solar heat, a natural sun screen. One could still see a few smoldering stumps, but for the most part this fire season, originally predicted to be among the worst, was fizzling out, the nutrients of the burned pines and firs already being reabsorbed into the soil.
"Ashes the size of silver dollars floated down like deep fried snowflakes from a bacon-grease sky."

If there is anywhere one can grow to love and respect fire, it is here in central
Idaho, in the Salmon/Selway wilderness. It always makes me angry when I turn on the television and hear one of the clueless newscasters report that so many thousands of forest acres had been “consumed” by fire. As the walls of the river reveal, no fire kills every tree. Few of the most severe forest fires achieve even a fifty percent mortality rate of the mature trees in the burned area. The happy survivors are visible everywhere, growing in groves that cling to the hillsides, along scorched ridge tops, in the bottoms of ravines and along the banks of the river. They are made stronger by the loss of competition, the dead tree trunks fall to the forest floor and replenish and stabilize the fragile soils. New light spurs the growth of forage for wildlife. This is not rocket science and I still cannot understand why the Boneheads in the U.S. Forest Service don’t understand this. These obviously healthy trees bare scars of past fires, yet the Freddies persist in allowing loggers to cut in burned areas arguing that the trees are dead if they show the faintest sign of fire damage. This is what they did up on the Lewis and Clark Trail last year and it is repeated in every region of the country by our so-called foresters.


Right: A fire ripped through this stretch of forest on the Salmon River in late August, claiming few trees.

Eleven years ago, about this same time of year, we were camped up on top of the Salmon River’s canyon rim at the site of the notorious Cove/Mallard Timber Sales and the residence of Uncle Ramon. The occasion was the first ever Lowbagger Jamboree. We were celebrating the injunction we had gotten earlier in the day that brought logging on the Cove/Mallard, the biggest below-cost timber sale in the history of the nation, to a screeching halt. Floyd had come out to celebrate with Michael Donnelly. We had a contingent of non-American Greenpeace crew members of the Black Pig, a.k.a. MV Greenpeace, who had recently returned to Seattle from Korea and Siberia. We also had a few Missoulians, a few Potatoheads, the Velcro Sheep, several kegs of beer and a vast supply of other goods and stores for a party of two hundred people. The problem was that we had only about sixty people, because crazy-assed fires were burning all over the state, and a really big one was about to cut us off from the road to Dixie, the only way out.

Ashes the size of silver-dollars floated down like deep fried snowflakes from a bacon-grease sky. It was midday and the sun was nowhere to be seen. The Velcro Sheep played over one hundred songs and the vegans were dancing naked two days later when Ramon showed up, realizing that being one day late to a two day party is much different that being two days late to a three day party that was supposed to last only one day. He knew right away that he was too old to have any hope of catching up. Everyone else had been dipping in the Skippy Jar for days. The kitchen was a disaster area. There were bodies lying everywhere and we still had two kegs of beer. One can still see evidence of the fires of ’94 on the Salmon today. But at Uncle Ramon’s place up on the rim, the only evidence of our presence that year is a graffiti-sprayed trailer house with a collapsed roof and a few moldy sleeping bags that even the wood rats won’t sleep in. Waste-high fir trees are already sprouting through the parking area and the only sounds that can be heard come from the wind, a few birds and the television sets of the Pentecostal Christians who moved in next door.

Left: Surviving patches of trees from the massive 2000 fires.

This year’s Salmon River float had a crew that combines members of last year’s Salmon float and our epic Missouri River canoe trip. Our redneck friends from Alabama were excited about meeting the Good Looking Wilderness Homos, and the Montanans were wondering what all the fuss was about. In all, we had eight folks from Washington D.C., but only about five-and-a-half were actually gay. Heidi the bicycle messenger was a definite Lowbagger, having just been squeezed out of her job for trying to organize her co-workers. Ned Daly was back in Missoula again; the former Alliance for the Wild Rockies organizer is now a mucky-muck for the Forest Stewardship Council and was mulling over whether or not the FSC should certify OSB. I told the SOB to stop using TMA (too many acronyms) but since they were already certifying paper, what was the big deal? Anyway, not much business got discussed on this river; flat water means lots of paddling and the solitude soon enveloped our entire party as we slipped into the great bosom of the Big Wild, united in our desire to escape civilization and drink beer.

As we leave the Salmon River amidst news of the destruction of New Orleans and the Gulf Coast, the Man Without a Bioregion is entering the second year of his personal odyssey to discover the soul of America. It seems once again that the world has changed. The voice of the Earth is being loudly heard even as her defenders are being increasingly silenced by the media, and for the first time I feel the real rumblings of discontent over the treatment of our fragile planet spreading to new and growing audiences around the world. Like the fires on the Salmon River, the hurricanes are trying to speak to us, and more and more people are listening.

Certainly we must now know that we have to live with nature in order to survive on this planet. And living with nature means learning about nature. We cannot stop a fire that is burning and we cannot stop a hurricane in motion, but if we stop trying to control them, and give them room to move and fulfill their role in the ecological scheme of things, they will seek a balance and we both can prosper. Fires cannot and should not be fought, and we can only make them worse by logging. Hurricanes cannot be stopped, they can only be made worse by burning more fossil fuels, logging more forests and developing more of our coastal wetlands and barrier islands. To those who have continually called us nuts and obstructionists, elitists and tree huggers, and especially to those who say the environmental movement is dead, can you hear the voice of nature?

Mike Roselle returned only slightly singed from the River of Fire. Contact him at roselle@lowbagger.org.




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